Bicycle trip

Undulating, sandy, two-wheeled hour

To Whoknowswhere, village of my year

whitewashed walls

a splash of red gate

turquoise painted mud, low doors,

damp red earth road and hopscotch gardens

Green house blue house cyan house

Stick fences and lamp shady trees

Buffalo heads bowed, goats roped.

Bright sari heads covered then exposed

Community hubbub of wide smiles,

black eye makeup and wrinkles.

Wide eyed wonder at the white girl on the bike

Namaste Namaste Namaste bye bye

Delhi by bike ...a note

Orange Bikes, white boat

Jet-lag, sore throat

Wool Hat, warm coat

Red Fort, dry moat

Pony trap, tied goat

loud horns, one note

Delhi by cycle ..and boat

...jetlag and a continuing sore throat made hauling myself out of Delhi's pre-dawn quiet (yes, its does go quiet eventually!) into a test of my will, but newly restored my will won the day. At 0610 I haggled a decent deal with a previously sleeping auto driver and was soon speeding through the sleep-deadened streets. Cold air forced its way into my jacket but I was able to breathe the pre-putrified air which hung only with dust ahead of its daily dose of molecular carbon.

Upon arrival at our meeting place we were given orange bikes (I love the Dutch!) and were briefed on the morning's ride, essentially we were to stay in single file and use the bell "generously". Within two minutes the group was bisected by a reversing minivan with no mirrors but by 1030 reversing minivans were small fry. Being a part of the phenomena that is Delhi's Traffic was a joy, I felt not a moment's stress but had I been watching my heart would have been in my mouth. As long as you stay alert and in the moment (which once again I had just been schooled in on my Devon retreat) then you just keep flowing with it. Horns and bells within the throng serve valuable purpose because 6 lanes of traffic, are after all, operating in close proximity within the three marked lanes!

Thankfully most of our ride was in the gloriously medieval narrow lanes of Old Delhi where ponies, sacred cows, sheep and goats meander with an ear for the nearest bell or horn. We cruised gently through alley ways of traditional nighbourhoods as people and dogs rose from their beds (some inside and some on the streets themselves) and began to soap themselves, pray, urinate, teeth clean, excrete, warm themselves on fires, cook and set up shop for the day. Down at the ghats life was also stirring; children in smart uniforms carried out their ablutions with cheeky smiles and men gazed out over the hazy river scene as sleep left their bodies. If it was not for the overwhelming stench of the long-dead Yamuna river this could have been confused with a scene from the Keralan backwaters. Early morning Delhi was marvellous indeed, the gigantic Red Fort and the monumental Jama Masjid in early light were spectacular and so the cliche lives, this is a place of great contrast where life is raw, splendid, filthy, religious, rich, deprived and delicious ...and I am captivated by it.

Delly in Delhi

Well here I am! I've had no sleep really for about 3 days until this morning when I arrived in the noisiest city on earth and promptly slept through the city's cocophony and the builders replastering the hotel staircase.  The gluey stench of the chemical mixing outside my door, the almost continual ring of car and autorickshaw horns, the unstifled hum of human life and the doves on my window sill tried to lure me out but alas they failed until I had had a good 3 hours sleep in a bed!

The flight was good although I did have reason to remember that Qatar is really not as good as Emirates.  The hotel sent a boy to meet my flight (a very big travel concession for me but it is day 1) I think he just goes and agets people all day but it was great and it gave me chance to admire the pillars outside the arrival hall (see below) instead of fending off wannabe drivers ...a good concession!

I have an indian SIM in my phone, some rupees in my pocket, I have bought a banana and done a lot of walking around.  I have been struck by how useful living in a house of 50 people you don't speak to for a few days is upon arrival in Delhi.  My ability to exist without eye contact seems to be fending off those who wish to sell me something, require a donation or would simply like to accompany me for a while and inevitably (I guess) take me to a shop where they get commission!!

I have booked a cycling tour of Old Delhi at 0630 tomorrow and until then I plan to eat and rest

I'm here ...its amazing what can happen in a month!