Thursday 15 March 2012

“Don’t Panic, its Organic”


Rainforest Retreat at Mojo Plantation has a communal daily program much like an Ashram although there are no compulsory early mornings and the optional activities are based around nature walks and talks on the Kodagu (Coorg) environment, conservation and organic plantation farming.  Elective early mornings tend to take hold the first time you are woken at dawn by the whistling thrush and rush outside to hear it again along with its vast array of backing signers.  Tasty, healthy and locally-sourced buffets are served in an open pavilion beside the stream which we cross a couple of times on the path that winds between the lush green plants from our cottage.  Log burners in the outer walls of each cottage (and the shared bathrooms for the bunkhouse and tents) are lit morning and evening for steaming hot water.  There is no phone signal and no internet access.  Lights operate on batteries charged through solar units during the long sunny days.  Meals are cooked using the biogas generated from the cow and goat manure which is digested anaerobically in a tank right beside the livestock area, creating combustible methane and organic fertiliser slurry.  Everything here in this (Indian) temperate paradise is done beautifully, from the “eco-chic” cottage decor to the delicate carrot and beetroot salad.
  
Papaya
Pepper ready for Harvest


Steve (Irwin) and the 7ft Rat Snake Skin!
Our fellow guests were originally a couple of charming Lithuanian orienteerers, a Swedish ecologist rock climber and an Indian biodiversity research student, however, we were then joined by seven, twenty-something “conservation and lifeskills” students and their lovely teacher, a botanist who runs a botanical reserve in the Wayanad area of the Western Ghats.  Their fascinating course to date has seen them building and living communally in a shelter within the botanical reserve and experiencing first-hand the impact of uncontrolled mining in the Goan foothills of the Ghats.  The camaraderie between their group has been heartening to watch and a pleasure to reside amongst.  The arrival of the students was fortuitous for those of us who were already here because we have been able to tag onto their educational program which has facilitated walks with three naturalist experts and some very interesting supplementary talks in addition to the basic educational talks about the plantation and its organic operation.  Last night, Maya the owners’ daughter, gave a passionate and insightful presentation on the full suite of local fauna without reading a single word from her powerpoint slides (…a fine example from a 14 year old for many a UK business presenter!!!).  Maya’s presentation was followed by an impromptu talk on the Indian Elephant by one of the world’s few female Elephant Mahoots, who runs a nearby sanctuary and had been invited for dinner.  This evening, Chamika the research student (who Osa the Swede had spent the day bagging soil samples with) gave us an overview of her findings to date and with the ever-present “Collins challenge” and all of the other scientific opinion interjecting around the place she was brave indeed!
The main crops grown in the plantation are coffee (a blend of Arabica and Robusta is brewed morning and afternoon), cardamom (apparently you can also “pop a pod” to help you get over a nicotine craving), vanilla and pepper - although the planting by no means stops with the crops.  Biodiversity has been groomed here using lure plants and barrier plants to encourage the beneficial bugs to thrive and inhibit the hostile ones from surviving. There are also a lot of useful herbs, flowers (hibiscus juice is delicious!), fruit trees (even a fat and cholesterol and busting one!) and of course hundreds of orchids! 
Tarrantula Nest
Our walks have taken us from fish watching in pretty valley bottoms to bone dry ridges topped with unique “Shola” grasslands and we have wandered steep sided forest tracks that place you right in the rainforest canopy and areas that the Indian Government calls “forest” but which actually represent a spread of non-indigenous fast-growing trees which look “foresty” quite quickly but do not support the delicate local ecosystems. 

Ants eating larvae petrified by a wasp for its babies


For the first time ever I have been shown bird calls and images and gone away able to identify them for myself, I have viewed creatures that would normally have made me squirm with absolute fascination and my itch for scientific learning has been well and truly scratched.

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