...jetlag and a continuing sore throat made hauling myself out of Delhi's pre-dawn quiet (yes, its does go quiet eventually!) into a test of my will, but newly restored my will won the day. At 0610 I haggled a decent deal with a previously sleeping auto driver and was soon speeding through the sleep-deadened streets. Cold air forced its way into my jacket but I was able to breathe the pre-putrified air which hung only with dust ahead of its daily dose of molecular carbon.
Thankfully most of our ride was in the gloriously medieval narrow lanes of Old Delhi where ponies, sacred cows, sheep and goats meander with an ear for the nearest bell or horn. We cruised gently through alley ways of traditional nighbourhoods as people and dogs rose from their beds (some inside and some on the streets themselves) and began to soap themselves, pray, urinate, teeth clean, excrete, warm themselves on fires, cook and set up shop for the day. Down at the ghats life was also stirring; children in smart uniforms carried out their ablutions with cheeky smiles and men gazed out over the hazy river scene as sleep left their bodies. If it was not for the overwhelming stench of the long-dead Yamuna river this could have been confused with a scene from the Keralan backwaters. Early morning Delhi was marvellous indeed, the gigantic Red Fort and the monumental Jama Masjid in early light were spectacular and so the cliche lives, this is a place of great contrast where life is raw, splendid, filthy, religious, rich, deprived and delicious ...and I am captivated by it.
Upon arrival at our meeting place we were given orange bikes (I love the Dutch!) and were briefed on the morning's ride, essentially we were to stay in single file and use the bell "generously". Within two minutes the group was bisected by a reversing minivan with no mirrors but by 1030 reversing minivans were small fry. Being a part of the phenomena that is Delhi's Traffic was a joy, I felt not a moment's stress but had I been watching my heart would have been in my mouth. As long as you stay alert and in the moment (which once again I had just been schooled in on my Devon retreat) then you just keep flowing with it. Horns and bells within the throng serve valuable purpose because 6 lanes of traffic, are after all, operating in close proximity within the three marked lanes!
Thankfully most of our ride was in the gloriously medieval narrow lanes of Old Delhi where ponies, sacred cows, sheep and goats meander with an ear for the nearest bell or horn. We cruised gently through alley ways of traditional nighbourhoods as people and dogs rose from their beds (some inside and some on the streets themselves) and began to soap themselves, pray, urinate, teeth clean, excrete, warm themselves on fires, cook and set up shop for the day. Down at the ghats life was also stirring; children in smart uniforms carried out their ablutions with cheeky smiles and men gazed out over the hazy river scene as sleep left their bodies. If it was not for the overwhelming stench of the long-dead Yamuna river this could have been confused with a scene from the Keralan backwaters. Early morning Delhi was marvellous indeed, the gigantic Red Fort and the monumental Jama Masjid in early light were spectacular and so the cliche lives, this is a place of great contrast where life is raw, splendid, filthy, religious, rich, deprived and delicious ...and I am captivated by it.
This is so impressive and nice title of blog. I am always searching such type of Blog that gave some useful knowledge and relax our mind. So Very thanks for design this type of content and what are you thing at time of write. Thanks for sharing views.
ReplyDeleteold delhi tours & Guided Tours in Delhi